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| This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1881. Excerpt: ... from wood of more than one years growth. Hence the spur pruning I consider the most desirable whether trained to stakes or otherwise. In order to get the vines in proper shape, the system commences with the first pruning, which is at the end of the first seasons growth, when the vines should be cut back to three buds. The following year only one cone should be allowed to grow, and at the second pruning is to be cut back according to the strength of the vine. When all are strong the conea may be cut to four or five feet long, and will be denominated a fruiting cone as shown in fig.one. Figure two shows the same cone in fruit. At the end of the season, Ftg. 1. Fig. 2. cut the shoots back to two or throe buds, as shown in figure three. From each of the buds on these spurs a shoot will appear, bearing the fruit, and will appear as shown in figure four, and in pruning all the wood is to be cut away, except one shoot, and this one cut to three buds again, and will appear substantially as shown by figure three, only that a portion of the old wood of the spur will remain, and will be lengthened a few inches each year. When your vine consists of more than one cone, each one is to be treated in the same way. When these spurs get so long as to be inconvenient, train a cone from near the base and proceed as with figure one. All suckers should be kept off, and not allowed to grow except for a renewal cone. Mr. Gould thinks that though methods of pruning might differ, the-results would be about the same. He would leave one spur of six buds on the leading shoot, and prune all other spurs back to one bud. Mr. Greenman said he found the earliest grapes nearest the ground; the largest ones on the new wood of the second year's spurs. Said further, that the farmer or any one... ...Read more |
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